The Camino Primitivo

I was facing a tough decision on my return to the city of Oviedo after my excursion into the Picos de Europa.  Should I stay in this beautiful city for a day getting to know it and sample more of its great food or start the walk on the Camino Primitivo?

I calculated that walking the 320 or so kilometers on this route would take me about 12-13 days.  I only had some very basic information from the internet about the route and its albergues, so I decided to visit the tourist office in Oviedo to see if they had anything to offer.  They did have a guide but only for the section in Asturias.  I would have to find additional information once I reached the final leg in Galicia.  Coming out of the tourist office, I noticed a young woman in pilgrim costume talking with some tourists.  It turned out she was an employee company that gives city walking tours.  This particular tour offered a reenactment of a pilgrim experience as they entered the city.  The second part of the tour was with another guide pointing out the most important buildings and history of the city.  It was only an hour and a half in length so I would learn a little about the city and still have enough time to get to my first night's destination only 15 km from the city.

An important part of Oviedo and Asturian history is that this kingdom is credited with the start of the reconquista in the 9th century.  The moors had conquered almost the entire peninsula except the mountainous regions of Asturias.  The reason being, every time the Moors tried to advance north through the rugged terrain they were ambushed in the mountains by the armies of the Asturian kings and forced to retreat.  Even villages conquered earlier by the Moors, encouraged by the successes of the mountain battles, took up arms against their invaders.  It still took about 500 more years to finally reconquer the peninsula....but winning these battles in Asturias was the turning point.
It was also in the 9th century that King Alfonso II made the first ever pilgrimage to Santiago on this Primitive Route when the tomb of St James was discovered in a field in Galicia.  This is the reason that it is also known as the Original Camino because after word of this king making his way to Santiago was made known, pilgrims from all over Europe began walking to Santiago creating all the different routes that exist today.
Well enough history...more about this Original Camino Primitivo.
The Primitivo is considered the most challenging of all the routes for its difficult mountainous terrain but also the most rewarding for its scenery....the Cantabrian mountains, forests and quaint mountain villages.
I definitely agree with this assessment...at least that is when the fog lifts, usually about midday.

 Oviedo is only about 35 km from the north coast of Asturias so naturally it is quite humid and often foggy.  There are far fewer services on this route and by that I mean hostals, albergues, fountains and in general...the availability of food.  But it also means fewer people competing for those spots.  With fewer places to sleep, it also means that many of the days can be quite long as no albergue is available for 25-30 kilometres which can be difficult in the mountainous terrain.
But ever present is the conch shell and comforting yellow arrow pointing the way.

After the city tour I was eager to get started and instead of eating something nourishing that would stay in my system for awhile,  I decided to try one of the famous pastries that the city of Oviedo is known for.  This pastry, called a carbayon, is so famous that the inhabitants of Oviedo are known as "Carbayones".
The tour guide had pointed out a certain cafe that was a favorite of the locals and not knowing if I would ever have this opportunity again, I decided it was a must!

This delicacy has a pastry base and a filling of almonds and egg yolk then covered with a carmel icing.  Along with a cafe con leche I was ready to begin the Camino Primitivo, the last leg of my journey to Santiago.  Within a short time it was obvious that this was not a good choice for the energy that is required when walking with a backpack.  Although I did not really feel that fatigued, my legs started to shake and I had to sit down and eat an orange and my emergency stash of roasted almonds which got me to my destination and next meal.
And what a meal it was!!  Grilled goat cheese salad with Iberian ham.

They say to really have a feel for a country, you need to know its history and customs, speak the language, take part in its traditions and eat its food.  I am really good on the food part :-)

The Primitivo definitely has a different feel.  With far fewer people and fewer towns and villages along the way, you do feel somewhat isolated.  You can walk for hours not hearing another voice except the one in your head or out loud singing along with one of the earworms that has taken up residence there.  Nor is there total silence as there are birds, bells on the cows, sheep and goats, the occasional barking dog and the peeping of frogs.  It is quite comforting walking through a dense forest made even closer by a thick mist and hearing the constant tinkling of animals with bells reminding that civilization is not that far away.

Passing through a village you are always greeted with buenos dias or buenas tardes and always BUEN CAMINO...the traditional greeting given to pilgrims.  A literal translation would be 'good road' but actually something more along the line of the old Roy Rogers and Dale Evans song 'Happy Trails...'   Gosh, that was a long time ago....but I am sure some of you remember?
Some villagers want to know where you are from and others, surprised that you are walking alone tell you to ten cuidado or be careful.
Look closely at the feet of the gentleman in the following photo.  It may be difficult to tell but he is wearing wooden shoes that have three platforms to keep the feet above the 'guck' found in corrals and barn floors.

Here is close up of the said shoe I took while visiting an amazing museum dedicated to the tools and lifestyle of an era gone by.

In this next photo, the structure you see is called an horreo which is pronounced like OREO...the cookie.  Note the mushroom like structure supporting the building at each corner.  These buildings were used to store grain, cheese, wine etc.  and the purpose of the mushroom shape was to prevent mice from getting in to the horreo.  Nowadays, some have just been left to decay but others have been carefully restored and I am told can even serve as extra bedrooms when company arrives.

***Note the rows of corn drying to the left of the door***

Besides friendly villagers, there are also friendly animals.

The route passes long forgotten monasteries....

Roman bridges overgrown with wild blackberries....

many embalses or pantanos, which are artificially created reservoirs of water collected and stored for the dry seasons.....

and of course quaint mountain villages

amazing landscapes....

and of course, more Camino Art!

I am feeling a mix of emotions having crossed the border into Galicia, the last leg of the journey, marked by a plaque that I would have missed if not for some pilgrims creating a line of stones across the path.

After 36 days and 848 km there is excitement that I am so close to the final destination of Santiago de Compostela and sad that the walking and the vacation is almost at an end.  Should I spend the precious few days that I have left and walk another three days to Finisterre (literally translated as the end of the earth) or take a completely different track and take a bus or train and visit a couple of cities in Portugal?
You will have to keep reading to find out.
I don't know if we each have a destiny, or if we're all just floatin' around accidental-like on a breeze. But I, I think maybe it's both. – Forrest Gump